The Three P’s of Lucas Hugh: Product, Positioning, Persistence (2022)

LONDON, United Kingdom — Given the explosive trajectory of the activewear market, which is outpacing growth in traditional apparel categories, it's no surprise that upmarket fashion players like Tory Burch have set their sights on the multi-billion dollar opportunity. But can fashion and athletic wear come together in a single product that performs to the highest standards and looks good beyond the gym? That was the question designer Anjhe Mules set out to answer when she began developing luxury activewear brand Lucas Hugh, named after both of her grandfathers, in 2006.

Although the category is undergoinga wave of 'premiumisation', led by the likes of Sweaty Betty and Lululemon, back when Mules launched her label in 2010, there was nothing inthe market that integrated technology and high-fashion design. "It was something that was very important to me because what was missing in my eyes was something that provided all of that but was still within fashion," said the soft-spoken Mules, a New Zealand native.

All of a sudden people were realising that women were wearing activewear throughout the day and not just at the gym but I think that is the future of ready-to-wear.

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In a sharp cream blazer layered over a royal purple top and leggings of her own making, she embodied her brand’s target audience of on-the-go, fitness-focused women, who pay £225 (about $385) for a pair of leggings. The brand is now stocked at the likes of Net-a-Sporter, Net-a-Porter’s athleticwear spinoff, as well as Harrods, Shopbop, Kirna Zabete, and its own web store.

“I think that you can definitely get fashion-related sportswear, but not a technical product,” she said. Indeed, high-calibre technical specifications and fabrication are the brand’s calling card. Over four years of research and development, funded by her savings and loans from friends and family, Mules consulted with sports scientists and fitness trainers, including a technical designer who worked on Team GB’s Olympics kits.

The Three P’s of Lucas Hugh: Product, Positioning, Persistence (1)

Anjhe Mules, founder of Lucas Hugh | Source: Courtesy

Lucas Hugh leggings, fabricated with moisture-wicking polyamide elastane, are fused together with an iron rather than stitched, which is better for blood flow. Strategic mesh panels helpventilateareas of heavy perspiration, such as the inner legs, while concealed shorts on every pair ensure that they stay opaque. The company is also in the process of patenting theseamless waistband.

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But beyond its impressive technical specifications, Lucas Hugh is also covetable for its minimal, futuristic aesthetic, rendered in an on-trend colour palette – no Day-Glo hues that seem to appear only on workout gear. Understated branding, slimming construction, and geometric hand-sketched prints combine to lend the garments sleek, multi-functional appeal. The full range has expanded to include puffer jackets and wool-lined bodysuits for skiing and a less structured knitted line for yoga and pilates.

The Three P’s of Lucas Hugh: Product, Positioning, Persistence (2)

Lucas Hugh A/W 2014 | Source: Lucas Hugh

Mules is a former swimwear designer who owned her own label after graduating from design school in New Zealand. She first spotted the activewear opportunity when she was employed on a private jet owned by a Russian businessman, a side job she took to earn a living while interning for Alexander McQueen in London.

“I was working for one of the richest men in Moscow part-time,” she said. “This was such a good way for me to get global perspective and understand the luxury market. And I realised then that fitness was massive – it was definitely big in Russia but [also] every location that we went to.” From Sardinia to New York, Mules realised that women everywhere were on the hunt for clothing that adapted to their increasingly busylifestyles. “Working out of hotels, I found it really difficult to find something that was cool enough to walk through the hotel lobby or if you got locked out of your room or just these multi-purpose occasions,” she recalled. “That’s when it clicked – the product is missing from the market.”

Utilising her swimwear expertise, Mules began formulatingthe concept for her then-nascent brand. But her exacting specifications limited her options for manufacturing and the threat of dwindling funds loomed. “It was very difficult to find a place that would take me on because it was a start-up idea, it was very conceptual, very different to anything in the market as far as incorporating the technology,” she said. “It took me one year to get into the factory that I wanted to get into.”

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Lucas Hugh Spring/Summer 2014 collection | Source: Lucas Hugh

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Despite the initial setbacks, Mules pressed on and launched Lucas Hugh with a basic online shop in July 2010. Adapting the brand’s five-month production lead-time to the fashion industry’s calendar proved problematic early on. “If you arrive late or don’t stay on the shop floor long enough, you get a bad sell-through. So we do two fashion collections a year and we have a core collection where we introduce new colours twice a year as well, but at opposite times to the fashion collections.”

Initial success came when the company signed on key stockists, including Net-a-Porter and Browns Focus. Slowly, they began growing their way to profitability, which it achieved this year thanks to its steady ascent of core clients and an appearance on last summer's blockbuster dystopian action film The Hunger Games, starring actress Jennifer Lawrence.

Costume designer Trish Summerville stumbled upon Lucas Hugh while on the hunt for futuristic activewear, and within months, Mules found herself working on the technical garments worn by the film's lead characters. Almost overnight, the fledgling young brand was inundated with interest from fans and fashion press from all over the world.

“I was in the front page of The New Zealand Herald, the national newspaper! Which pleased my mother so much,” Mules laughed. “And I even received a letter from the head of my university, saying congratulations and he was so proud, which was really nice.”

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Orders from all over the globe poured in, particularly from the US, where online sales picked up by a sustained 25 percent. The exposure accelerated Lucas Hugh’s growth and internal organisation. “Dealing with the international press was really interesting for us because we weren’t set up to land the goods with the tax and duties. I had to hire an operations director, who had to come on board to restructure all of that.”

Since then, the brand has continued to grow by 100 percent year on year, and turned over £750,000 (about $1.3 million) last year with a profit. It secured a distribution centre in Atlanta and plans to launch both US- and Australia-facing websites early 2015. The US, which now comprises 20 percent of all online orders, represents a major area of focus and opportunity for the brand.

And although other players, both established and emerging, have begun to tap the ascendant category, Mules’ prescience and persistence have positioned Lucas Hugh for continued growth. “It’s a really topical subject right now; there’s so much noise around activewear,” she conceded. “I think Lucas Hugh is in a really good position right now because it’s at the top end of the market at the moment and – touch wood – we don’t have any direct competitors.”

Mules believes that the recent rise of activewear is a harbinger of fashion'sevolution towardscross-functionality. “All of a sudden people were realising that women were wearing activewear throughout the day and not just at the gym but, in my eyes, I think that is the future of ready-to-wear, not necessarily activewear, but technical products that women can do multiple things in.”

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“I still own 100 percent of the company. But obviously that’s going to change shortly because we’ve got big plans to grow the business quite quickly now,” she continued. The company is actively seeking a minority investor to catapult it into the next phase of growth.

“We’ve had quite a few significant milestones along the way where I thought, oh thank God we’re not going to keel over!” Mules laughed. “I don’t believe things just happen. I think if you’ve got a very clear idea of where you’re heading, often things come.”

After all, if you aren’t great at marketing and positioning your own brand, what client would trust you to market and position theirs?. Over a period of a decade my firm’s evolving positioning enabled my firm to stand out, attract clients and propel my business forward.. These three core attributes form the foundation of a powerfully positioned creative firm.. The ideal expression of a creative firm’s positioning will succinctly convey the union of your firm’s WHY + HOW + WHO.. Note if your positioning lacks Personality, your firm appears common.. Take special note of how this positioning accentuates Alma Mater’s Purpose, Power and Personality while subtly aligning with the firm’s Name, too.. Your studio’s Purpose, Power and Personality have evolved greatly since you started your business, and will continue to do so for as long as you are in business.. Interestingly, in my mentoring program, Creative Studio Jumpstart , I assessed the positioning of my 30+ member studios from all over the world.. All creative firms struggle with positioning!. Now that you know how great positioning can empower your firm to stand out, attract the kinds of clients and projects you desire, and ultimately propel your studio where you want it to go… you also know that this is one journey that will be worth the trip.

Each of the manly roles involves competition between men to be the best – to bag the most game, accumulate the most wealth, give away the most wealth in the provider role; to marry the most wives, have the most kids, seduce the most women in the procreator role; to demonstrate the greatest strength, courage, mastery in the protector role.. A real man cultivates his mind.” Or a man who can’t, or does not want to have children may say, “What’s manly about being a dumb breeder?. An honorable man says, “I cannot contribute in this manly role, and I admit I fall short in this area of the manly code.. When anthropologist Michael Herzfeld made a study of the culture in a small village in Crete, he found that the men distinguished between two standards of manhood: being a good man and being good at being a man .. Being a good man is not much different than being a good woman, and it is thus a definition that has more to do with how a man is different than a child, than how a man is different from a woman.. It is possible to be good at being a man, without also being a good man.

A few years ago, while watching a video of one of the machine projects I’ve worked on I was asked by a non-engineer friend ‘how do you end up with a machine like this?’ He was struggling to understand how we got from a product to the fully working machine he was watching.. In other words understanding the ‘Product’ and the ‘Process’ is key to the ‘Production’ success of the solution.. I find the best way to understand and fully define a machine’s process is to draw out each step in a simple, clear and easy to understand layout drawing.. The time to worry about how things are driven and what the parts might look like comes later.. The main reasons to produce process drawings is to define key process dimensions and to promote and inform understanding of exactly how the process will work, in minute detail if necessary.. This new machine was a variant of a successful prototype machine we had already developed.. The design of the machine also coincided with a company-wide change from using AutoCAD 3D to a full solid modelling, parametric CAD system.. We had immediate problems with the new collation area which meant the machine lost control of the products causing them to crash into each other on entry – a problem we had successfully solved back in the earliest days of the test rig and carried through to the other variant of collator.. The fault was found almost immediately – a critical process dimension controlling the height of the sachet as it entered the collator had been inadvertently enlarged in the design process.. However, critically they hadn’t worked on the prototype machine, and it appears that the importance of this dimension was not communicated well during the design phase.. I am convinced not having a drawing that stated the critical dimensions simply which could be used to review the 3D CAD model was the root cause of the problem.. Another, happier example of the benefits of step-by-step process drawings is a more recent requirement I had to design a cutting mechanism to cut through a delicate web.. To be successful I had to understand the relationship between the movement of the cutter’s crank driven linkage mechanism and the linear feeding of the web.

The 3 P’s for Success image courtesy of Pixabay “Patience, persistence and perspiration make an unbeatable combination for success” –Napoleon Hill.. Success simply has to do with accomplishing ones dreams, goals and aspirations.. It will be mission aborted and certainly a misnomer should a cultivator of Chinese bamboo trees destroy what he or she has planted (while still below the earth surface) with the pretext that the trees he or she planted are not growing or that they are taking too long to grow.. This makes patience a necessity, less great dreams are aborted.. Thomas Alva Edison once noted: “Many of life’s failures are people who did not realize how close they were to success when they gave up.” If only they had been a little more patient.. In 1831, Abraham Lincoln failed in business.. In 1833, Abraham Lincoln tried a new business, and failed.. In 1843, Abraham Lincoln ran for Congress and was defeated.. In 1848, Lincoln ran again, and was defeated.. It eventually paid off when in 1860; Abraham Lincoln was elected president of the United States.. He noted: “Any man who keeps working is not a failure.

Dave Sunderman discusses the changes VMS has made regarding the use of sustainable and raw materials and supplies.. In addition to processes, PSPs must also look at the change in product availability and cost.. We work hard to find sustainable products that are comparable in price to conventional alternatives.. Commercial print and screen printing uses a lot of set up sheets that either get thrown out or recycled, so here the opportunity is searching for ways to reduce your landfill waste and recycle, because in these forms of printing, you MUST make a set up sheet to ensure print quality.. Specifically recycled content ones, and have no set up sheets in this process, thus, reducing waste by adopting this technology.”. How can a PSP change shipping or delivery processes in order to increase green awareness?. Sunderman says, “Sometimes when we ship a product to a customer, we must think about the way in which it is packaged, and if we are using our resources most efficiently.

Too many children and young people are not diagnosed with type 1 diabetes until they are in diabetic ketoacidosis a life-threatening condition that requires urgent medical attention.. In addition to type 1, type 2, and gestational diabetes, a small minority of people develop specific types of diabetes due to other causes.. Monogenic diabetes syndromes, such as neonatal diabetes and maturity-onset diabetes of the young Diseases of the exocrine pancreas, such as cystic fibrosis and pancreatitis Drug or chemical-induced diabetes, such as with glucocorticoid use, in the treatment of HIV/AIDS or after organ transplantation. Because these types of diabetes are rare, they are often misdiagnosed as other types of diabetes.. You can learn more about these types of diabetes in the Classification and Diagnosis of Diabetes section in the Standards of Medical Care in Diabetes .. Diabetes may be diagnosed based on A1C criteria or plasma glucose criteria, either the fasting plasma glucose or the 2-h plasma glucose value after a 75-g oral glucose tolerance test .. Furthermore, for people living with diabetes, limiting sucrose intake to 10% or less of total daily energy is recommended by the 2013 Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Prevention and Management of Diabetes in Canada.. El principal factor que gira en torno a las 3 P de diabetes es el nivel alto de azúcar en la sangre, que es caso en diabetes.. Recommendations Testing to assess risk for future diabetes in asymptomatic people should be considered in adults of any age who are overweight or obese and who have one or more additional risk factors for diabetes.. This implies that factors other than an increase in new diabetes diagnoses contributed to this rise in prevalence, including the fact that Canadians with diabetes now live longer.. Diabetic ketoacidosis is a condition resulting from high blood sugar and acid buildup, primarily affecting people with type 1 diabetes.. Though diabetic ketoacidosis is most common and serious with type 1 diabetes, it can also strike people with type 2 diabetes who are skipping or cant afford insulin, have prolonged uncontrolled blood sugar, or are very sick with a co-occurring illness or infection, according to Dr. Umpierrez.


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